detours ahead

Another road closure forced me to reroute through Idaho instead of exiting Yellowstone’s south gate into Grand Teton National Park. I spent the night in the least offensive looking motel I could find and studied the map to plan the way to Jackson Hole in the morning.

While I was figuring out the new best route, I was reminded that traveling isn’t easy. There are starts and stops and detours to slow you down or take you off in a completely different direction. It never goes exactly as planned, so be prepared to embrace the unpredictability and improvise.

“Life is what happens while you’re making other plans.” – John Lennon

I’ve had a great deal of practice with that during the past few years. Absolutely nothing has gone according to plan and I’ve had to learn to adapt. I tried to enjoy the road I was on, contemplating all kinds of creative ways to get Robert out of his slump and continue a happy life with him. Problem was, I didn’t have a willing participant.

When it became clear that his days as a surgeon were over, I suggested we take off for a year in France or Italy. I’d study language and he could take cooking classes. He was already an excellent chef and I thought this would appeal to him and refocus our future. “Let’s have an adventure!”  

My proposal was refused with a flat-out “no!”

He was so absorbed with his disability, his doctors, and his medications that what he couldn’t do completely eclipsed what he could. Our needs as a couple became non-existent. He was either withdrawn or angry. I was heartbroken, as my Robert had disappeared.

I thought he would show up again once he realized this attitude didn’t serve him. Go to therapy, PT, learn bridge—do something! That an “I can beat this!” attitude would appear and he would adapt and take action.  Do whatever was necessary to get as well as he could and restore confidence and happiness to his life–and ours.

That’s what I would do,

but no matter what I suggested or tried, things only got worse.

I waited for months.

I waited for years.

If I waited any longer and continued to live my life his way, I would disappear down the rabbit hole right along with him. I was already on the descent.

We must not be wired the same way. He seems to disconnect, become rigid and angry.  I’m the opposite.  If I want something bad enough, I take action.  Do whatever is necessary to get it done or make it happen–regardless of inconvenience, pain, or investment.

Focusing on why I’m doing what I’m doing, makes what I have to do to attain it become matter of fact. Initially, I may make excuses or feel sorry for myself, but that doesn’t last forever. I’ve learned to ditch the victim mentality, become the victor, embrace my inner Nike* and

The Grand Tetons on the road ahead.                                                        May 2017

just do it.

The radio was playing a symphony as I reached the crest of a hill; the cymbals crashed right on cue and the Grand Tetons appeared in the distance. I had to laugh. It was another “OMG! moment” getting me out of the car to pay homage and let me know I was on the right path.

I drove through Jackson and straight to the park. I couldn’t wait to see those Tetons up close and personal. Picturesque vignettes were all along the route–frozen lakes surrounded by snow-covered pines reminiscent of Hallmark Christmas cards–and those mountains! Almost uniform in their silhouette and contour, they were mesmerizing.

My evening in Jackson included a walk around town and a movie. Peering into shop windows and then sitting in the dark watching Tom Hanks and Emma Watson in The Circle was a strange departure from the activities of my past few days. I felt as if I’d entered an alternate universe, completely out of sync. Hitting the road in the morning was a far more familiar reality.

How had that happened so quickly?

It hadn’t even been a week since leaving Chicago and already it seemed like a different life. Either I was very adaptable or I was really ready for this trip. Probably a combination of both.

I thought I would spend a little time in Salt Lake City, but it too seemed like another planet. I don’t even think the full hour was used up on my parking meter before I was on the road again. Yes, it was lovely and the architecture was diverse and interesting, but the pristine environment seemed over-calculated. I longed for the handiwork of Mother Nature.

Fortunately, I got it right away. The Great Salt Lake really is great and the Great Salt Lake Desert completely unexpected. Bonneville Flats Speedway is only a tiny portion of it, I had no idea how enormous and unusual looking the rest of it was. Of course, the size is quite obvious if you look at a map, but—true confession–I’d never paid much attention to Utah before. Oops.

Nevada was not nearly as bleak, more of a living desert…complete with tumbleweed and cactus. I drove on as far as I could before tiring and wound up in a ticky-tacky little town off the highway loaded with casinos. After all, it was Nevada.

California, here I come!

I awoke the next morning knowing this would be my last day before reaching Oakland.   My feelings were mixed. I was really looking forward to seeing the girls and beginning a new chapter of my life, but I hadn’t expected to enjoy getting there quite so much.

My last cross-country drive had been with Robert to our home in Palm Desert. Maybe spending more time there would improve things? Although Europe hadn’t qualified, the desert boasted of Eisenhower Medical Center, which seemed to meet his criteria.  Not quite the adventure I had hoped for, but at least a start.  I knew I would be the one doing the heavy lifting and maneuvering on the road, and I was okay with that, but his impatience and resentment made it difficult.

We drove by way of Denver to see friends and then down through Arizona to the Grand Canyon. It was fun  to see them and a beautiful drive, but by the time Robert and I arrived at the canyon, I was hoping he would fall in…

By comparison, this trip was liberating. Silence and independence made me acutely aware of what I was seeing, feeling, and thinking. Having downloaded audio books and uploaded my playlist in preparation for hours alone, I was surprised how seldom I turned them on. The solitude was therapeutic, never lonely.

Following the California Trail, May 2017

Go ask Alice

By definition, change requires that you “make or become different” and/or “substitute or replace something”. All of that has been happening to me slowly but surely for the past few years, but it was loading up the car and heading west that reinforced the shift. My own personal “OMG!” moment.

“I could tell you my adventures—beginning from this morning,” said Alice a little timidly; “but it’s no use going back to yesterday, because I was a different person then.”- Lewis Carroll, Through the Looking Glass

I know exactly how she feels.

“Where are you, Mom?”

“I’m just passing the zoo on the way up the hill.”

“My hill? You are! We have to get ready for you!” She hung up.

I arrived at the house a few minutes later, punched the code into the keypad and waited for the gate to open. It was dark out and at first, all I could see before me were fireworks in the driveway. As I drove in, the girls appeared in the firelight, yelling and jumping and waving their arms.

“Hooray, hooray, you’re here, you’re here!”

The perfect way to celebrate the end of one journey and the beginning of another.

 

                                                            ########

 

 *Nike, the goddess of victory

 

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road warrior

Driving alone for six days is entirely different than flying there for six hours. Of course you end up in the same place, but on the road you have time to acclimate, to ease your way into a sense of place, to see the sites, and interact with a variety of new people. The best part? You get re-acquainted with yourself.    Not at all like being air dropped into a new location.

I had decided to drive eight to ten hours per day–not pushing it if I was tired and not driving in the dark. I also wanted to stay off deserted roads, (Did you see Nocturnal Animals? Chilling.) but I didn’t follow all of those rules. It proved to be both impossible and fortuitous. What I would have missed!

It is not my intention to provide you with a travelogue. There are far better sources you can turn to for that. However, each mile or location formed distinct impressions…evoked particular emotions. I have to tell you where I’ve been in order to tell you how I feel about it. Please be patient,

  Badass at the Badlands, April 2017

I promise I’ll get to the point.

Driving through Wisconsin and Minnesota, I was reminded of previous trips and I laughed to myself at some good memories. It all seemed quite normal, until I crossed over into South Dakota. I had never been there before and I was jazzed. Crossing the state line brought the promise of something new.

When the Badlands emerged up ahead, I was sure that Scottie had beamed me up to another planet. The otherworldly terrain, desolate and barren, was very different than the green, rolling plains surrounding them. I explored a few of the craters, then pressed on.

“Hello, boys!” The greeting left my lips as I rounded the curve. There they were, up in front of me popping out of the mountaintop before disappearing out of sight as I took the next turn. George, Abe, Teddy, and Tom. Mount Rushmore! I visited Sitting Bull, as well, but it was the Black Hills themselves that took my breath away.

The Yellowstone Road

The next morning, the GPS kept telling me it was unable to determine a route to Yellowstone Park citing “road conditions.” Thank God and Linda for my Rand McNally Road Atlas because even the Wyoming Travel Information Bureau couldn’t help. I spotted the new facility as I crossed the state line and head over to get their take on what lie ahead. Ha! Hours of operation: 9-5, Monday –Friday. It was Sunday. What about weekend or evening travelers? The absurdity made me think I was still in Illinois.

So I took it one town at a time, heading west toward Cody, Wyoming. The name of the town just jumped out of the map at me and I knew I had to get there. It was more intuition than knowing, although it happened to be the town nearest the east entrance to Yellowstone Park. Perfect.

“Oh my God!” I screamed and had to stop the car. I obviously wasn’t the first person to do so, as a turnoff was right there waiting for me. I got out of the car, as well. I had to feel what I was seeing and couldn’t do that from inside. This was my first introduction to BIG SKY.

It went on forever– “from sea to shining sea”.  So broad that I could perceive the curve of the earth. So vast that I felt tiny and insignificant. So exposed that I was frightened. So moved that it made me cry.

The enormity of it all.

It may not sound like a big deal, but as I continued west following my map or the road signs advertising, “The most scenic route to Yellowstone” I lost count on how many times I experienced an “OMG!” moment. Each one evoked the same action and response. Lucky me to have seen and felt all of this.

Checking in for the night in Cody, I asked how long it would take to get to Yellowstone in the morning. The girl behind the desk sheepishly handed a piece of paper to me. Her most apologetic voice told me, “Usually about forty minutes, but the east gate is closed until next week. This map will guide you to the north entrance. It’s about four or five hours from here.”

Now I knew why the GPS couldn’t get me to Yellowstone Park. Disappointing? Yes. Tragic? No.  In fact the opposite. Had I known that the east gate was closed, I would have taken a different road further north, missing “the scenic route” (and all the great self-analysis that came with it) completely. I had all night to contemplate what the additional hours to the north gate would reveal.

The drive up through Montana was gorgeous, so by the time I arrived, I was ready to be really impressed. Everyone from Yogi Bear to Ken Burns had made Yellowstone Park sound like heaven on earth. I drove down the road next to a buffalo, waited to see Old Faithful erupt, (right on time, btw) and mentally checked these items off my bucket list as I realized that while magnificent, none of those things had knocked my socks off as much as I thought they would.

                                                                                                                                                          WOW is for Wyoming!    April 2017

None of them.

Not the Badlands, not Mount Rushmore, nor Yellowstone Park could remotely compare with the beauty and wonder of the terrain that I covered (on the road and in my head) to get to them. It was what lie in-between that made this trip awesome.

The journey surpassed the destination.

It made me wish I had done this sooner…by about fifty years. I wonder how different my life would have been if this spirit of hope, discovery, and adventure had been instilled in me at an early age? Traveling cross-country to see what our ancestors had discovered and the perils they overcame couldn’t help but inspire. It profoundly impacted me now. I can only imagine what it could do to a ten-year old.

For those of you who did do it when you were ten, tell me. Did it infuse you with pioneer spirit or just annoy you because your brother was pulling your hair from the backseat and your father would stop only to sleep or refuel and not even consider pulling off the road for an “OMG!” moment?

The climate inside your immediate environment–be it your vehicle, your home, or your head–eclipses whatever is happening outside of it. Alone, in my spiffy little sports car, was the perfect incubator for discovery, inspiration, and analysis.

Imagine…

and I still have days to go before reaching California.

to be continued

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